July 20th, 2005

Love Me Mark

I love Mark Bittman, and I love him even more now that I have seen his new PBS show Bittman Takes on America’s Chefs. I have read Bittman for quite some time; and I use his book How to Cook Everything often, both as reference guide and a recipe book. But now that I have seen him in action, paired off against some of this countries finest chefs, I can honestly say that I adore him.

Bittman just gets how the American home chef cooks, or at least how they intend to cook. In his show (in case you have yet to see it), each week he takes on a different chef, either in their restaurant, or another place of their choosing, but always in rather neutral territories. The program is not so much a competition, as in Iron Chef, but rather a show-and-tell. Understanding the intricacies and delicacies of “restaurant” food, Bittman then takes on the chef’s recipes, and pares them down for the home chef. At times Bittman’s recipes are just stripped down restaurant versions, other times they are simply inspired by, and use similar ingredients. But always, Bittman’s food is appetizing and wholly do-able.

Bittman is not a beautiful, arresting man a la Ludo Lefebvre (at least I think this how we are supposed to see him), nor is his technique so impressive that it is intimidating, a la Jacque Pepin (who incidentally I also adore), but with his charm and self-deprecation (always an attractive trait), Bittman proves to be not only a wonderful narrator, but also a stupendous teacher. And he never panders. Unlike some 30-minute queens who shall remain nameless, Bittman speaks to his viewers and readers like they have half a brain in their heads; he is chatty but never condescending. Did I mention that he never panders?

Whether you are a bourgie or a socialite, a novice or an experienced chef, Mark Bittman offers a little bit for everyone. For those that are truly minimalists, to those seeking a tad more from their recipes, to those people like my sister, who loves watching his show but would never think of actually making anything from his program, or any other for that matter, Mark Bittman has the answers for today’s home chefs…And did I mention he never panders.

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