April 20th, 2006

A Simple Bourgie Hash

Sunday Brunch. It seems that lately I have been having guests over quite often to partake in that not-quite-breakfast-but-certainly-not-lunchtime, ritual. It is a wonderful way to entertain– more relaxed, carefree, an assemblage of sorts. There is no worry over what wine to serve (mimosas do just perfect), no sit-down courses to worry about getting on the table at the right moment, and dessert? No one really expects a ganache covered cake at 11:30 in the morning! (Though at my house one would rarely be turned away either.)

But what do you serve? With so many options it can be a bit of a conundrum. There are always the standards. Crisp waffles, their crannies cradling pools of melted butter; or stacks of fluffy pancakes, teetering tall on a crisp, white plate, but you have to wait for those entrees. Irons must be piping, griddles must be hot, there is turning and flipping, then placing in a warm oven where they inevitably get the tiniest bit soggy as you wait until all of the batter is cooked. Then there are the multitudes of egg dishes, runny yolks seeping into slices of fried bread, swooping in beside slices of crisp bacon. Not a bad option, but what to do when you want something more, something a wee bit bourgie. Why, you turn to the Bourgie Hash.


A dish that is delightfully simple to make, yet delicious to eat. In fact I prepared many of the components of this hash the night before only to reheat, and assemble Sunday morning. Yukon gold potatoes were cubed and sauteed until golden brown and tossed with a bit of freshly minced dill. Golden and chiogga beets were sweetly roasted and peeled, cut into cubes similar in size to the potatoes. Nubbins of asparagus spears were blanched, and stalks of green garlic were sliced and sauteed. The piece de resistance, flaked pieces of locally smoked trout added a salty smokiness to this brunch time treat.

And of course, could you really have a hash without an egg or two thrown in for good measure? This is perhaps the most challenging part of the entire event, and each person poaches slightly differently. I cracked an egg in a shallow pool of simmering water, quickly brushing the lingering whites to the top of the yolk with a spoon. Let the egg simmer for 2-3 minutes, then remove to paper towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon. The first few eggs may seem a bit daunting at first, but you will get the hang of it. And once you puncture the white, releasing the sunny yolk into the bed of hash, lending a creaminess to this light springtime hash, it will all seem worthwhile.

Now I made this hash as a rite of spring, overflowing with the vegetables that looked freshest, and most tempting at the grocer’s. But you should try it with any combination that sounds best to you. Sauteed in a skillet, topped with an egg, this hash is sure to delight even the most bleary-eyed of guests on your next Sunday morning brunch.

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