The Atlantic or the Pacific. Who knew that taters along the shores of one country could produce such different types of fish? Call it naivete, or maybe it was just lack of thought, but it wasn’t until I arrived in New York that I realized the immense variety. Citarella, a lovely market, not far from where I live, has shown me the way. Citarella is known for it’s seafood, and as I gazed at the vast array of countless fish and shellfish, I could see why.

Sure, Citarella had the basics, tuna, sea bass, swordfish, and salmon, but there were fish I had only read about: sablefish, bluefish, pompano, not only red snapper but a glossy pink snapper, scales iridescent and shining brightly. Each lay on slabs of ice, waiting to be filleted. I breathed in deeply and smelled…nothing– just what you want from a fish market, no fishy smell, no disinfectant, just the sea. I took my time deciding what I would buy for that night’s dinner, until I spotted them, next to the skate wings, and directly above the tilapia– sardines.

Come in close, I have a secret for you– until last week, I had never had a sardine. Blame the waters of the Pacific Ocean if you have to, but it wasn’t for lack of trying. I simply had never seen them at the fish markets in the East Bay. But there they were, eyes clear and vacant, scales silvery and bright. I snapped up a half dozen or so, grabbed a lemon and headed home.

I knew that I wanted a simple preparation, something that would allow the fish to shine through. I consulted my cookbooks, and finally decided on broiling. Rubbed in olive oil, seasoned with sea salt and a bit of cracked pepper, I broiled the sardines briefly, about 4 minutes a side, before squeezing them with lemon. Now I will admit, eating, and preparing sardines are not for the meek, you are eating a whole fish. I imagine if you’re the type of person who doesn’t like to eat things with a face, eating a food with the head still intact, even if it remains uneaten, is definitely out. And then there are the bones– while I found them to be a pleasant contrast to the meatiness of the fish, the thought of eating a fish, bones and all, might make the faint of heart squeamish.

But I am neither squeamish, nor faint of heart, so I loved them. The sardines were delicious, luscious, fatty, tender meat with the subtle crunch of the bones. Mmmm. Now my only dilemma is which fish to try next.