That’s a mouthful! At least for English speakers. But rather than choke on polysyllabic, antiquated German words (definition to follow shortly, keep reading), why not gobble down some lovely, subtle brandade instead? And just what is this warm dip? Allow me to explain…
Brandade, a settling and satisfying, warm dip, hailing from the south of France, is made with reconstituted salt cod (or bacalao) and mashed potatoes. Now, this combination might sound unsettling to some, but I assure you, it is divine. Delicately seasoned, with Dijon mustard, sauteed onions and a bit of thyme, the dish is really a combination of all these ingredients, but is so much more than merely the sum of its parts.
The dish does take some time to assemble, but the actual cooking time is fairly short. The salt cod must be soaked in cool water and refrigerated for 24 to 48 hours. On its own, salt cod can be a bit of a bore to the American palate. You could say, with its flaky texture and pallid color, it’s even the potato of the sea– pleasantly bland and willing to take on whatever flavors surround it. But, when mixed with the rest of the ingredients, and baked in a ramekin until golden brown– mmm-mmm. The salt cod becomes transmogrified, baked into a delicious spread, topping a thin slice of baguette or even a crostini.
The salt cod and the potato, two ingredients which are frankly a bit insipid on their own, seem to share an elective affinity. They possess a special chemical bond, and when they meet, they change themselves into one transcendent hors d’oeuvres. Two ingredients, one a protein, the other a starch, spinning around each other in an inexorable vortex of mutual attraction! Whew! I know I’m getting a bit over-excited here, but the dip was just that good. And seriously, potato and salt cod really do make for an ideal union, sort of like the elective affinities that Goethe wrote about in his great novel, Die Wahlverwandtschaften. If you would like to read it, go to the library, but if you would like to make this luscious brandade, the recipe is here.
