September 25th, 2007

Hello and Goodbye

The berries are gone. At least the good ones are. They’ve rolled up their welcome mats and bid the berry-loving world adieu. It seems like months ago those final rosey apricots, their supple skin veritably bursting with juice, said farewell. Of course, there are those final hanger-ons, the colonels of summer stone fruit: the random plums, the sweet Georgia peaches, and the nectarines—firm, but still holding on.

But these fruits are having to share space in the market. Hold on—fall fruit is coming! Apples so crunchy and tart, their skin so shiny, it almost reflects that the final days of Indian summer fruit are rolling in. Pears, with their buttery, sweet taste, and sumptuous physique are earning their way onto the market shelf, making company with those stone fruits.

For only a few short weeks do we have these two emblems of their respective seasons together. That means we have a little amount of time to cook with them. You can make a plum and apple crisp, or a pear and nectarine cobbler. There is always the peach and apple pie, syrupy sweet from the peaches, yet with amazing body from the apples. But this is breakfast month, and as much as I love fruit-laden desserts for breakfast, this time I wanted to make something a little more proper for the first meal of the day.

Baked fruit seemed like the ideal solution, simple, ever so slightly sweet, and perfect with Greek yoghurt. My combination of fruit were fist-sized, thin skinned peaches, and diminutive Fiorelli pears. I made a simple syrup of one-half cup water, one-half cup sugar, the juice and zest of one lemon, and a vanilla bean, split and scraped. Put the mixture on the stove, just until the sugar dissolves. Then into baking pan the syrup goes, along with three pears, and three peaches, cut in half. The fruit bakes at 400 degrees, cut side up, for 30 minutes. Make sure to baste the fruit frequently, you want the finished product to be moist, and flavorful.

And flavorful they were. The pears were tender, and spoonable; the peaches were meltingly soft, and vanilla-scented. And with the yoghurt, cool and slightly tart, the fruit was the perfect combination—good for you, but not too good. A breakfast like this emboldened me, and made me say, “Come on fall, bring it on!”

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