At my birthday dinner a clean, white plate was presented at the dinner table. It housed a circular configuration of tiny gougères, still warm from the oven. An amuse bouche, if you will, something salty and savory to start the meal off right. They were thoroughly enjoyed, not a crumb left in sight. And I thought to myself, I should make those, emboldened by my baking adventures as of late.

Then I received Alice Waters’ latest cookbook The Art of Simple Food, as birthday present. It looked lovely. Clear and concise, it appeared to be less of a cookbook by a noted chef, and more of a wonderful resource for the home cook. I glanced through it quickly that night, but had to wait a few days until my birthday guests left, and I settled in nicely to my new round (meaning 30!) year. Finally opening up the book for my first substantial read, I was immediately struck by the rather unconventional layout. This is not your typical cookbook, with lists of ingredients, then followed by text telling you what to do with the aforementioned ingredients. Rather, the ingredients are highlighted amongst the text. Telling the reader exactly what to do with the ingredients, and when. It makes sense, doesn’t it?

Many of the recipes are basic, or simple as the title suggests. But we all know that sometimes it is the most simple of ingredients that makes the delicious of meals. When I got to the chapter entitled A Little Something, having to do with snack foods and tapas, I was thrilled to see gougères. Reading through the mere handful of ingredients, and the nonthreatening explanation, I knew I had to give these cheese puffs a try.

Made with a dough very similar to a choux pastry dough, whenever I had seen anyone make cream puffs or profiteroles, a pastry-making chill would run down my spine. I think it was because the final product was so impressive, I thought, how could the baking process be anything less than a pain? Not so! The puffs were a snap to make, and with plenty of Gruyère cheese mixed into the batter were delightfully salty with a snap. My gougères baked up like a dream, and I, ate them hot from the oven, as recommended. The outside was crusty and crisp while the insides were eggy and moist. They may have been even better than the gougères that were served at my birthday dinner.

Gougères (Cheese Puffs)
from The Art of Simple Food

makes approximately 20 puffs

1/2 cup water
3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs
3 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated (about 3/4 cup)

In a small, heavy bottomed saucepan, heat without boiling, water, butter, and salt. When the butter has melted, stir the flour in, all at once. Keep stirring vigorously until the mixture coheres, and pulls away from the side of pan. Keep stirring for another minute over the heat. Dough should be a smooth mass. Transfer to a mixing bowl to cool slightly, stirring will speed up this process.

Beat in each egg, one at a time. Egg should be thoroughly mixed into the dough before the next is added. Stir in the grated cheese.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking pan with parchment. Spoon the dough onto baking sheet, approximately 1 tablespoon in diameter, and about 2 inches apart. You may need to smooth each spoonful with a wet finger, or gougères can be piped out, using a plain 1/2 inch tip.

Bake undisturbed for 10 minutes at 400 degrees, then drop the temperature to 375 degrees and continue to bake for 10-15 minutes. Gougères should be golden brown and outside. With a sharp knife, pierce the bottom of each warm puff, to let out any steam, and help the puff stay crisp. Eat right away, or puff can be reheated at 375 degrees for 3 minutes.