When I started this blog way back in January of 2005, I wasn’t much of a baker, so this wasn’t much of a baking blog. I wrote about chickpeas, zucchini, quickly frying fish, or sautéing vegetables. Standing, perched over my cast-iron skillet, or waiting impatiently while a roast chicken fragranced the entire house with its subtle aromas of lemon and thyme was all par for the course.

But as time went on, for the sake of everyone’s interest, both the diligent reader and the refreshed writer, I expanded my horizon. Occasionally a cookie, a cupcake, or even a pie or two crept its sugary way onto the Internet in the form of a Nosheteria post. I found that baked goods were nothing to be feared, but rather, they were to be relished. Yes, the long-time dessert lover, was becoming a baker as well.

This summer, when Brian and I moved to New Haven, my baking curiosities were solidified when I approached the final frontier—bread. And let me tell you, once you’ve tasted scratch, you never go back. Or at least I couldn’t. I, by no means, am a professional baker, but to say that I have an affinity for home-baked bread is to put it mildly. My freezer is now full of an assortment of loaves and nubby rolls. I have a two pound container of active dry yeast chilling and waiting to be used in the refrigerator. Flours are my friends. And, of course, there is now the constant pursuit of the ideal bread baking book. I have found more than a few which I love, among those, Beard on Bread, which I have written about before. But this recipe deserved a revisiting of that book.

Water-Proofed Bread, is exactly what it sounds like—a satiny smooth dough, laden with butter and eggs, which has its first rise while nestled in a tea towel, submerged in water. Bizarre, right? After I read the account by Beard, I ran to my cookbook shelf, and scanned each of my bread baking books for a similar recipe. Nothing. Several Google searches and I came up with a big fat zero. I have discussed this bread recipe with other home-bakers, and they have never even heard of such a thing.

Well, all I can say is, the silence is doing a big disservice to bread lovers everywhere. I will shout it (or write it, as it may be) from behind my computer screen, this bread is stupendous! The dough is soft, almost shaggy, and when mixing it up, you may even say—this doesn’t look like much. But upon kneading, it comes together like a pillowy dream. During the proofing process, the dough bloats, and eventually rises to the top of a water-filled bowl, becoming silky and light as a feather. I have made this bread several times, this last time forming individual rolls out of the dough and adorning them with crunchy poppy seeds.

The bread itself is similar in nature to a brioche or a challah, eggy and rich, with just the right amount of sugar to lend a beautiful caramel color to the crust. Perhaps this method is some forgotten relic of the past, but I say it’s time to revive it. If anyone has been baking water-proofed bread for years, please drop me a line. I would love to know where you got the recipe.

Water-Proofed Bread
from Beard on Bread

2 packages (approximately 4 1/2 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1/2 cup warm water (100-115 degrees)
1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 cup warm milk
1 stick (1/2 cup) butter
2 teaspoons salt
3 eggs
3 1/2 cups flour

makes 2 loaves, or about 18 rolls

Rinse a large mixing bowl, or the bowl to an electric mixer with warm water, and dry thoroughly. Put yeast, warm water, and the teaspoon of sugar in the bowl. Stir to dissolve the yeast, and allow to proof for 5 minutes.

Heat the milk with the butter and 1/4 cup sugar, just until the butter is melted. Add this mixture to the yeast mixture, stir in the salt. Add the eggs, one at a time, blending thoroughly after each addition. Stir in the flour, one cup at a time to make what will probably a very wet and sticky dough. Blend quite vigorously. Switch to a dough hook if using, or dump dough out onto a kneading surface. Sprinkle with additional half cup of flour. Continue kneading to make the dough firmer until all of the flour is mixed in to the dough.

When dough becomes more easy to handle (about 3-5 minutes), form it into a loose ball. Place the dough onto a clean tea, or kitchen towel that has been sprinkled with flour. Wrap and tie the towel loosely, just as you would a package. Submerge the package in a large bowl of warm water (about 100-115 degrees). The dough will sink. Let it sit for 35-40 minutes, or until the dough inflates and begins to float.

Lift the dough from the water, letting excess water drip off. Unwrap, and turn out onto a lightly floured surface. The dough will be quite sticky, knead. If making loaves, divide, and place in two well buttered 9-inch bread pans. Cover, and let dough rise in a warm, draft free environment until almost doubled in bulk. If making rolls, cut off, and shape into balls, placing on Silpat, or parchment lined baking sheets. Brush with an egg wash, sprinkling with poppy seeds if using.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees and bake on the middle rack of the oven for 30-35 minutes. Loaves are done when a hollow sound is achieved when rapping with your knuckles. Cool on racks.