September 11th, 2012

Penne alla Vodka

Last year my dear friend moved away. And he left me booze, a lot of booze. This friend was not implying anything about my alcohol consumption, it was just that he was moving cross country. You know how grumpy police can be about traveling with open containers, especially over state lines. So when he moved, I became the owner of the remnants of his well-stocked bar.

Most of it is gone, save for the rhubarb and the orange bitters (a little goes a long way!), and a very large bottle of vodka. I am not much of a vodka drinker. If given the choice between a vodka or gin martini, the gin wins out every time. So I’ve begun to search for ways to use up my vodka. And one of the best things to cook with vodka has got to be Penne alla Vodka, essentially marinara sauce, enlivened with vodka, and enriched with cream.

Growing up in California, I had never seen or tasted this Italian-American classic. Sure, in the Bay Area we had the usual checkered tablecloth, candle in the empty Chianti bottle joints. They served the delicious standards, meat balls, bolognese, and pesto sauces, each with a cloth napkin to slip under your chin to protect from splatters. But that rich sauce, with the bite of vodka was something that I hadn’t really tried until I moved to the East Coast where it seemed to be a standard.

Of course, as with most any popular dish, the origins are up for debate. There is some specious talk of this pasta dish actually being Italian, from Bologna or even Rome. But food historians largely claim this classic as an Italian-American standard hailing from New York City around the mid-1970s or 1980s. To me, this seems like the most likely assertion. Pink pasta– only in America!

The dish can be made vegetarian with the omission of pancetta, but I enjoy the salty bite. While this dish doesn’t taste boozy, the vodka adds another dimension, a tanginess, a slight bitterness. Penne alla Vodka is one of those dishes that can be made in virtually moments, with relatively few ingredients– perfect for a week night meal. Check back in with me and my bottle of vodka, to see how many times we make it!

Penne alla Vodka

enough for 1 lb. of penne

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 lb. pancetta, diced
1 medium onion, diced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1/3 cup vodka
26 ounce can tomato puree
1/2 cup heavy cream
salt and pepper

In a large skillet, or Dutch oven, over medium-high heat, add olive oil and pancetta. Saute until pancetta becomes light brown in color, begins to crisp, and renders most of its fat. Add the onion, and continue cooking until onion becomes translucent. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low, and add the garlic, continue cooking until garlic becomes fragrant, and begins to soften, about 1 minute.

Add the vodka. (Do not pour directly from the bottle as there is a chance for the vodka to flambe.) Cook the alcohol off, and reduce the mixture by half, this will take 3-5 minutes. Pour in the tomato puree, add salt and pepper, and bring sauce to a simmer. Partially cover pot, and cook for about 15 minutes. Add cream, cook for an additional 5 minutes, and finally, taste for seasoning. Sauce is now ready. This recipe will make plenty of sauce for one lb. of pasta.

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