I like cheesecake; but I don’t love cheesecake. So why am I presenting you with a cheesecake recipe, and imploring you all to make it? Because I guess it would be more fitting if this cake were called a cheese cake– a cake with some cheese in it.

This recipe is one that displays the wonderful alchemy that is baking. There is no crust to speak of, but once baked, the simple cake batter seeps up around the sides of the cake, creating a crust that is chewy and containing for the rest of the goodies in this cake. And what are the rest of the goodies? Rhubarb, of course!

When I originally found this recipe it called for blueberries– a solid fruit choice. But rhubarb has just hit the markets out here, and blueberries, well they’re still on some truck from California or Florida. And besides, I am one of those people who loves rhubarb. I sliced the thin stalks, tossed them in sugar and a bit of cardamom, and then proceeded with the recipe.

The rest of the assemblage is very straightforward, though two bowls (ok, three if you count a bowl for the rhubarb) are needed. You have a stiffer cake batter spread in the bottom of a springform pan, you sprinkle on the sweetened rhubarb, and then you pour a more-liquid, ricotta custard on the top. One hour later, and presto-chango you have a lovely, springtime dessert.

This cake is not too sweet, and has the subtle bite of the rhubarb. I served it with slightly sweetened creme fraiche-whipped cream.

Rhubarb Ricotta Cake
adapted from King Arthur Flour

For the rhubarb:

1 1/2 cups (about 4 stalks) rhubarb, cut into 1/4 inch pieces
1/3 cup (2 1/4 ounces) sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
pinch of salt

For the batter:

1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (5 1/4 ounces) sugar
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the ricotta custard:

2 eggs
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) whole milk ricotta cheese
1/3 cup (2 1/4 ounces) sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease, or coat with cooking spray, an 8 or 9 inch springform pan.

In a small bowl toss the rhubarb with the sugar, cardamom, and salt. Set aside.

In a medium-sized bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the milk, butter, egg, and vanilla, and beat until smooth. Pour the batter into the prepared springform pan. Spread to the edges of the pan, the batter will just cover the bottom. Sprinkle on the rhubarb evenly, pouring on any juices that have collected as well. Set aside.

In another medium-size bowl make the custard. Beat the eggs until frothy. Add the cheese, sugar, and vanilla, beating until blended. Pour the custard onto the cake.

Bake for 55 to 60 minutes. Cake will be golden brown around the edges, and firm to the touch. Remove from the oven, cool for 15 minutes, then remove the outer ring of the pan. Cake can be served slightly warm, or at room temperature.